Dermatite de contato pigmentada por cosmético / Pigmented cosmetic contact dermatitis

A dermatite de contato pigmentada se destaca por sua raridade, sendo associada a inúmeros alérgenos cosméticos e têxteis. Acomete predominantemente mulheres de meia idade e fototipos altos. O teste de contato é imprescindível para a identificação do agente causal. O tratamento indicado consiste no afastamento do agente causal, no uso de fotoprotetores, clareadores tópicos e, por vezes, procedimentos dermatológicos abrasivos. Relatamos um caso de dermatite de contato pigmentada por cosmético motivado pela exuberância clínica e desfecho satisfatório, ressaltando a importância da suspeição diagnóstica e do manejo adequado impactando neste desfecho.

Pigmented contact dermatitis is a rare condition associated with numerous cosmetic and textile allergens. It predominantly affects middle-aged women with high phototypes. The patch test is essential to identify the causative agent. Treatment includes removal of the causative agent, sunscreen use, administration of topical bleaching agents, and occasionally abrasive dermatologic procedures. We report a case of pigmented cosmetic contact dermatitis motivated by its clinical exuberance and satisfactory outcome, emphasizing the importance of diagnostic suspicion and adequate management impacting this outcome.

Report on a case of significant increase in urine mercury due to excessive mercury in cosmetics / 中华劳动卫生职业病杂志

Mercury is highly toxic and can be absorbed through skin contact. From December 5, 2020 to February 16, 2021, occupational disease laboratory of the First People's Hospital of Baiyin received 30 urine mercury test samples from a beauty salon in Lanzhou City. The test results showed that 28 samples exceeded the normal value (normal value: 4 μg/g Cr) . 15 patients were treated with sodium dimertopropyl sulfonate for mercury removal and tiopron for liver protection, and the prognosis was good.

Clinical characteristics of patients with skin adverse reactions of cosmetics: report of 132 cases / 中华医学美学美容杂志

Objective:To analyse the skin clinical characteristics of adverse reactions to cosmetic products.Methods:A total of 132 patients suffered with the skin adverse reactions of cosmetics were collected in the Department of Dermatology in the First Affiliated Hospital of Xinxiang Medical University from January 2021 to December 2021. There were 5 males and 127 females, aged 2-66 (34.0±13.1) years. and the personal information, medical records, clinical characteristics and the cosmetic information as well as laboratory results were collected.Results:The major types of adverse reactions to cosmetic products were contact dermatitis (86.4%). Head was the most commonly affected site, The most common symptoms were pruritus and burning sensation (83.9%), and sores, dryness, tightness of the skin, and the common skin lesions included erythema and papula (92.9%). Suspected cosmetics were mostly skin care products (45 cases) and freckle removing products (30 cases). Only 7 patients accepted patch tests, 1 case had negative results and others were all tested positive.Conclusions:Adverse drug reactions affect young and middle-aged women mostly. Contact dermatitis is the most common adeverse reaction to cosmetic products and the patch test is still the most effective method in helping diagnosing contact dermatitis to cosmetic products.

Avaliação da composição e rotulagem de fotoprotetores labiais comercializados em farmácias / Evaluation of the composition and labeling of lip photo protectors marketed in pharmacies

Introdução: os efeitos deletérios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) sobre os tecidos labiais podem desencadear diversas lesões, inclusive de caráter maligno. A utilização de produtos fotoprotetores tem sido a melhor opção contra os efeitos nocivos dessa radiação. Diversas marcas de fotoprotetores labiais (FPL) estão disponíveis no mercado, onde o consumo é diretamente influenciado por qualidade e preço. Objetivo: analisar e comparar FPLs disponíveis em farmácias quanto à composição, ao preço e às características de rotulagem, segundo regulamentações da ANVISA. Metodologia: foi realizado estudo descritivo, que avaliou FPLs, quanto a FPS, indicação, constituintes químicos, FPUVA, preço e rótulo. Informações sobre as substâncias presentes e suas funções foram obtidas no INCI (Comissão Europeia), e os filtros solares foram identificados na INN (Organização Mundial da Saúde). As avaliações de rotulagem foram baseadas nas Resoluções da Diretoria Colegiada da ANVISA de nº 30/12, nº 7/15 e nº 69/16. Resultados: dezessete FPLs foram avaliados. Cinco apresentaram FPS 15; três, FPS 20; seis, FPS 30; e três, FPS 50. Dez filtros UV foram identificados, estando o Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate presente em maior número de FPLs. Doze produtos informaram ter proteção UVA. As características dos rótulos se encontravam dentro das determinações da ANVISA, na grande maioria dos casos. Houve alta variação do preço. Conclusão: a partir deste estudo, foi possível conhecer mais sobre a composição e as características dos FPL, principalmente sobre FPS e FPUVA, bem como se estão de acordo com as normas estabelecidas pela ANVISA, propiciando um maior conhecimento dos produtos que estão sendo comercializados.

Introduction: the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on lip tissues can trigger several lesions, including malignant ones. The use of photoprotective products has been the best option against the harmful effects of this radiation. Several brands of lip sunscreens (FPL) are available on the market, where consumption is directly influenced by quality and price. Objective: to analyze and compare SPFs available in pharmacies in terms of composition, price and labeling characteristics, according to ANVISA regulations. Methodology: a descriptive study was carried out, which evaluated FPLs, in terms of SPF, indication, chemical constituents, PPD, price and label. Information on the substances present and their functions were obtained from the INCI (European Commission), and the sunscreens were identified from the INN (World Health Organization). The labeling evaluations were based on the Resolutions of the Collegiate Board of Directors of ANVISA No. 30/12, No. 7/15 and No. 69/16. Results: seventeen FPLs were evaluated. Five had SPF 15; three, SPF 20; six, SPF 30; and three, SPF 50. Ten UV filters were identified, with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate present in the highest number of FPLs. Twelve products reported having UV protection. The characteristics of the labels were within the determinations of ANVISA, in the vast majority of cases. There was a high price variation. Conclusion: from this study, it was possible to know more about the composition and characteristics of FPL, mainly about SPF and UV, as well as whether they are in accordance with the standards established by ANVISA, providing a greater knowledge of the products that are being marketed.

Complicações em procedimentos de harmonização orofacial: uma revisão sistemática / Complications in orofacial harmonization procedures: a systematic review

Atualmente, as alterações estéticas faciais e a insatisfação com a autoimagem são influências que motivam a busca por procedimentos estéticos rápidos, não cirúrgicos e menos invasivos. Por esse motivo, a procura de pacientes que procuram por procedimentos estéticos orofaciais é crescente. O objetivo deste estudo foi elencar as complicações decorrentes dos procedimentos de harmonização orofacial por meio de uma revisão sistemática da literatura, identificando quais tipos de complicações e áreas são mais acometidas. As seguintes bases de dados foram pesquisadas: Medline (PubMed), SciELO, Scopus, Cochrane, Lilacs e Web of Science, de março a setembro de 2020, selecionando os estudos que apresentavam os seguintes critérios de inclusão: estudos originais em humanos sobre complicações após procedimentos de harmonização orofacial. Foram selecionados 33 estudos da literatura que apresentavam relatos de complicações em pacientes após o procedimento de harmonização orofacial na testa, nariz, olhos, região periocular e lábios. Mesmo a execução de procedimentos estéticos faciais menos invasivos pode acarretar possíveis complicações imediatas ou tardias após o procedimento, principalmente na região periocular e nos olhos. É importante alertar previamente os profissionais para essa possibilidade.

Currently, facial aesthetic changes and dissatisfaction with self-image are influences that motivate the search for quick, non-surgical and less invasive cosmetic procedures. For this reason, the demand for patients looking for orofacial aesthetic procedures is increasing. The objective of this study was List the complications resulting from orofacial harmonization procedures through a systematic literature review, identifying which types of complications and areas are most affected. The following databases were searched: Medline (PubMed), SciELO, Scopus, Cochrane, Lilacs and Web of Science, from March to September 2020, selecting the studies that presented the following inclusion criteria: original studies in humans, about complications after orofacial harmonization procedures. Thirty-three studies from the literature were selected that presented reports of complications in patients after the orofacial harmonization procedure in the forehead, nose, eyes, periocular region and lips. Even the execution of less invasive facial cosmetic procedures can cause possible immediate or late complications after the procedure, especially in the periocular region and eyes. It is important to make professionals aware of this possibility beforehand.

Clean beauty: artigo de revisão sobre a nova tendência em cosméticos / Clean beauty - literature review of new trends in cosmetics

Nos últimos anos, cresce a tendência pela busca de cosméticos "amigos da natureza", sem ingredientes químicos ou sintéticos, impulsionando as vendas de produtos pertencentes a este nicho de mercado. Atualmente, o termo clean beauty refere-se a produtos que não contenham ingredientes sobre os quais não se conheça o impacto que terão em nosso organismo ou seu potencial dano ambiental. Entretanto, a definição do que é um cosmético verde, bem como vegano, natural e orgânico, não é regulamentada pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária (Anvisa), sendo o objetivo deste artigo fazer uma revisão das definições para facilitar o entendimento médico sobre o tema.

In recent years, there has been an increasing trend toward the search for nature-friendly cosmetics without chemical or synthetic ingredients, thus boosting sales of products within this market niche. Currently, the term clean beauty refers to products that do not contain ingredients with unknown impacts on our bodies or that are potentially harmful to the environment. However, the definition of green beauty products, as well as vegan, natural, or organic products, is not regulated by ANVISA. Therefore, this study aimed to review these definitions to facilitate the medical understanding of the subject

Fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos: percepção de profissionais sobre melhora de flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital / Photobiomodulation associated with cosmetics: perception of professionals on the improvement of flaccidity and genital hyperpigmentation

INTRODUÇÃO: A fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos despigmentantes e rejuvenescedores tem mostrado benefícios na melhora da flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital em mulheres. OBJETIVO: O objetivo do estudo foi descrever a percepção de profissionais acerca da melhora de flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital tratados por fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos. MÉTODO: O estudo evidenciou percepção de melhora no aspecto geral, flacidez e pigmentação genital com uso da terapêutica proposta. RESULTADOS: Amostra composta por dez mulheres submetidas a quatro sessões de tratamento. A análise dos profissionais foi mediante a comparação dos registos fotográficos de antes e depois do tratamento da região genital. CONCLUSÃO: No entanto, é necessário que novos modelos de avaliação para evidenciar a efetividade terapêutica para tratamentos de flacidez e discromias na região genital sejam desenvolvidos ampliando assim os métodos de avaliação para além da percepção de melhora do aspecto geral.

INTRODUCTION: Photobiomodulation associated with depigmenting and rejuvenating cosmetics has shown benefits in improving sagging and genital hyperpigmentation in women. OBJECTIVE: The aim of the study was to describe the perception of professionals about the improvement of sagging and genital hyperpigmentation treated by photobiomodulation associated with cosmetics. METHOD: The study showed a perception of improvement in the general appearance, sagging and genital pigmentation with the use of the proposed therapy. RESULTS: Sample composed of ten women submitted to four treatment sessions. The analysis of the professionals was by comparing the photographic records of before and after the treatment of the genital region. CONCLUSION: However, it is necessary that new evaluation models to evidence the therapeutic effectiveness for treatments of flaccidity and dyschromias in the genital region are developed, thus expanding the evaluation methods beyond the perception of improvement in the general aspect.

Determination of azelaic acid and potassium azeloycinate diglycinate in cosmetics by HPLC / 上海预防医学

ObjectiveAn HPLC method was established for the determination of azelaic acid and potassium azeloycinate diglycinate in cosmetics. MethodsThe samples were extracted with 60 mmol·L-1 sodium hydroxide water solution-methyl alcohol. After centrifugation and filtration， the analysis of azelaic acid and potassium azeloycinate diglycinate was performed with a SVEA C8（250 mm×4.6 mm， 5 μm） column， using 15 mmol‧L-1 potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution （pH=3.0） and acetonitrile for gradient elution at a flow rate of 1.0 mL·min-1.The analytes were detected with UV detector， and quantified by external standard curve. ResultsThe results showed a good linearity in the range of 5‒1 000 μg‧mL-1 with correlation coefficients （r） larger than 0.999. The detection limit of azelaic acid and potassium azeloycinate diglycinate （LOD） was 0.020% and 0.015%， respectively. The spiked recoveries were 87.66% to 108.96% with the relative standard deviation （RSD） of 0.6% to 3.3%. ConclusionThe method is simple， rapid and highly sensitive. It is suitable for the determination of azelaic acid and potassium azeloycinate diglycinate in cosmetics.

Research progress of natural collagen peptides and its skincare efficacy / 生物医学工程学杂志

Natural collagen peptides are collagen hydrolysates. Because of their unique physicochemical properties and excellent biological activities, collagen peptides have been a research hotspot of cosmetic raw materials development and skincare efficacy improvement. Combined with the needs of the skincare efficacy and the development trends of cosmetics, the extraction methods and their structural characteristics of natural collagen peptides were summarized in detail. The applications and its research progress in skincare efficacy of collagen peptides, such as moisturizing and anti-wrinkle, trophism and anti-aging, filling and skin regeneration were expressed with emphasis. Finally, the development and practical applications in cosmetics of natural collagen peptides were adequately prospected.

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine / Desafios da nanotecnologia na permeação cosmética com cafeína

The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

A evolução do mercado de beleza e cuidados pessoais é constante no Brasil e no resto do mundo. Os avanços tecnológicos trouxeram a nanotecnologia para o campo cosmetológico, empregando princípios ativos em átomos envolvidos por vesículas, a fim de levar o princípio ativo precisamente ao tecido alvo para otimizar os resultados alcançados devido à considerável facilidade de atravessar barreiras cutâneas. A fabricação de cosméticos nanotecnológicos é confrontada com baixa capacidade de absorção. Um dos muitos princípios ativos encontrados na indústria cosmética é a cafeína, um pseudoalocalóide do grupo xantina usado como estimulante no mecanismo da ação lipolítica. Este ativo é amplamente utilizado no campo da estética e dos cosméticos em tratamentos que envolvem disfunções, como gordura localizada e fibroedema gelóide. Para funcionar perfeitamente, o princípio ativo precisa interagir e criar um conjunto de fatores que inclui a intensificação da lipólise. O encapsulamento de cafeína em nanocosméticos à base de gel tem o objetivo de levar esse ativo até o adipócito, a célula alvo, para o tratamento de disfunções mencionado. Assim, objetivamos apresentar uma revisão de como tem sido o uso de cafeína na produção de cosméticos.

Formaldehyde analysis of seized cosmetic products by HS-GC-MS of methylal, ethoxymethoxymethane, and ethylal derivatives

Abstract Formaldehyde is a carcinogenic compound used as preservative in cosmetic products. In this study, a derivatization procedure using MeOH, EtOH and HCl (25:25:1), and incubation at 60ºC for 4 hours was optimized, and the derivatized products - methylal, ethoxymethoxymethane (EMM), and ethylal - were directly analyzed by headspace-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (HS-GC-MS) to determine formaldehyde concentrations. The validated method provided good linearity of the standard curve, selectivity, recovery (89.6-106.6%), repeatability, and intermediate precision (RSD < 12%), with an LOD of 0.0015% and an LOQ of 0.005% for all derivatized analytes. The validated method showed to be fast, clean, and easy to implement in a laboratory. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first reported HS-GC-MS procedure to determine formaldehyde as methylal, ethylal, and EMM as derivatized compounds. The method was satisfactorily applied for the analysis of nine hair-straightener cream samples seized by the Civil Police of the Federal District, Brazil. Eight samples contained formaldehyde, at levels ranging from 0.33 to 4.02 %, higher than the legal levels, indicating the need to control the levels of this toxic compound in cosmetic products

In vitro evaluation of the cytotoxicity and eye irritation potential of preservatives widely used in cosmetics

Abstract The consumption of cosmetics has been increasing every year and is expected to reach $675 billion by 2020 at an estimated growth rate of 6.4% per year. Exposure to skin irritants is the major cause of non-immunological inflammation of the skin. Therefore, the safety evaluation of cosmetic preservatives should be increased. Thus, the present work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity as the viability endpoint and the eye irritation potential of preservatives used in cosmetics. Cytotoxicity assays were performed using MTT and NRU in human keratinocytes (HaCaT), human dermal fibroblasts, adult (HDFa), and human hepatoma cells (HepG2). The eye irritation potential was evaluated using the Hen's Egg Test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The evaluated preservatives were methylparaben (MP), propylparaben (PP), phenoxyethanol (PE), and a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (CMI/MI). All preservatives showed cytotoxic potential within the permitted concentrations for use in cosmetic products. In the HET-CAM test, PE and CMI/MI, MP, and PP were classified as severe, moderate, and poor irritants, respectively. Our results indicate that proper safety evaluations are required to ensure the beneficial properties of preservatives on cosmetic products without exceeding exposure levels that would result in adverse health effects for consumers.

A review of alternative methods to the use of animals in safety evaluation of cosmetics

ABSTRACT Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R's principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

Effectiveness of sunscreens and factors influencing sun protection: a review

Abstract The effectiveness of sun protection depends directly on the photo-protective product employed, the way it is used and the amount applied. Many studies report that sunscreens are often applied incorrectly, at amounts much lower than those recommended for the sun protection factor (SPF) specified on the label. When not used properly, the effectiveness of the product against sun exposure damage is reduced. Currently, sunscreens are available in a variety of different formulations and types, such as stick (bar), aerosol, cream, lotion, oil, tanning formulations and makeup. However, developing an effective stable photo-protective formula that can be correctly applied regardless of type poses a challenge, as effectiveness is dependent on several factors. Factors influencing effectiveness include sun exposure conditions (direct or indirect), level of protection (SPF), amount of product applied, maximum exposure period before reapplication, product type (spray, lotion, etc.), layer thickness required, coverage, and ability to spread and permeate into the skin. Studies comparing the effectiveness of different forms of sunscreens, the amount of product applied by consumers and SPF and UVA protection determined by validated methodologies, are lacking. Therefore, the objective of this study was to review the available literature on the topic and discuss the effectiveness of sunscreen formulations and factors influencing sun protection. This review was carried out on the scientific databases MEDLINE, PubMed and Scielo. Of the many publications retrieved, thirty-nine articles most relevant for this review were selected.

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine / Desafios da nanotecnologia na permeação cosmética com cafeína

The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

A evolução do mercado de beleza e cuidados pessoais é constante no Brasil e no resto do mundo. Os avanços tecnológicos trouxeram a nanotecnologia para o campo cosmetológico, empregando princípios ativos em átomos envolvidos por vesículas, a fim de levar o princípio ativo precisamente ao tecido alvo para otimizar os resultados alcançados devido à considerável facilidade de atravessar barreiras cutâneas. A fabricação de cosméticos nanotecnológicos é confrontada com baixa capacidade de absorção. Um dos muitos princípios ativos encontrados na indústria cosmética é a cafeína, um pseudoalocalóide do grupo xantina usado como estimulante no mecanismo da ação lipolítica. Este ativo é amplamente utilizado no campo da estética e dos cosméticos em tratamentos que envolvem disfunções, como gordura localizada e fibroedema gelóide. Para funcionar perfeitamente, o princípio ativo precisa interagir e criar um conjunto de fatores que inclui a intensificação da lipólise. O encapsulamento de cafeína em nanocosméticos à base de gel tem o objetivo de levar esse ativo até o adipócito, a célula alvo, para o tratamento de disfunções mencionado. Assim, objetivamos apresentar uma revisão de como tem sido o uso de cafeína na produção de cosméticos.

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine

Abstract The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

Resumo A evolução do mercado de beleza e cuidados pessoais é constante no Brasil e no resto do mundo. Os avanços tecnológicos trouxeram a nanotecnologia para o campo cosmetológico, empregando princípios ativos em átomos envolvidos por vesículas, a fim de levar o princípio ativo precisamente ao tecido alvo para otimizar os resultados alcançados devido à considerável facilidade de atravessar barreiras cutâneas. A fabricação de cosméticos nanotecnológicos é confrontada com baixa capacidade de absorção. Um dos muitos princípios ativos encontrados na indústria cosmética é a cafeína, um pseudoalocalóide do grupo xantina usado como estimulante no mecanismo da ação lipolítica. Este ativo é amplamente utilizado no campo da estética e dos cosméticos em tratamentos que envolvem disfunções, como gordura localizada e fibroedema gelóide. Para funcionar perfeitamente, o princípio ativo precisa interagir e criar um conjunto de fatores que inclui a intensificação da lipólise. O encapsulamento de cafeína em nanocosméticos à base de gel tem o objetivo de levar esse ativo até o adipócito, a célula alvo, para o tratamento de disfunções mencionado. Assim, objetivamos apresentar uma revisão de como tem sido o uso de cafeína na produção de cosméticos.

Determination of catechins in cosmetics by high⁃performance liquid chromatography / 上海预防医学

ObjectiveTo establish a high⁃performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） quantitative method for the determination of epicatechin （EC）， （-）⁃epicatechin gallate （ECG）， （-）⁃epigallocatechin （EGC）， （-）⁃epigallocatechin gallate （EGCG）， （-）⁃gallocatechin （GC）， （-）⁃gallocatechin gallate （GCG）， （-）⁃catechin gallate （CG）， cianidanol （CD） and gallic acid （GA） in cosmetics. MethodsSamples were prepared by ultrasonic extraction and followed by high-speed centrifugation of the extraction solution. The supernatant was filtered by 0.45 μm Millipore filter. The continued filtrate was taken for analysis. A reversed phase column， Kromasil 100-5 C18 （5 μm， 4.6 mm×250 mm） was used with 0.05% trifluoroacetic acid buffer and methanol as mobile phase under the condition of gradient elution. Diode array detection （DAD） method was used for the determination. Qualitative and quantitative determination was conducted in 10 batches of commercially available cosmetics. ResultsThe relative standard deviations （RSD） were in the range of 0.11%-6.30% （n=3）； the recoveries were in the range of 84.4%-114.7%. The method showed a good linearity within the concentration range of 0.49-105.39 mg·L-1 （r>0.995）. The detection limit was 5 μg·g-1. In 10 batches of commercially available cosmetics， three batches showed positive result， which was consistent with the UV spectrum of the standard. ConclusionThis method is efficient， sensitive and accurate. It is applicable to the determination of EC， ECG， EGC， EGCG， GC， GCG， CG， CD and GA in cosmetics.

Application of bovine corneal opacity and permeability test in the eye irritation evaluation of cosmetics / 上海预防医学

Objective To establish bovine corneal opacity and permeability （BCOP） test， and determine its predictive ability for the eye irritation evaluation of cosmetics. Methods A total of ten reference chemicals were selected to establish the BCOP test. Then eye irritation of 16 routinely collected cosmetics in our laboratory was predicted. In vitro scores were calculated by the change in the opacity and sodium fluorescein permeability after exposure to the testing cosmetics， and subsequently compared with the historical data by Draize test. Results Reference chemicals with known irritation classification were correctly classified by the BCOP test， which was consistent with the classification of UN globally harmonized system of classification and labeling of chemicals. Moreover， the specificity of the BCOP test for the classification of non-irritating cosmetics samples was 80.0% （8/10）， and the sensitivity for weak to mild irritating cosmetics samples was 83.3% （5/6）. The BCOP test demonstrated an overall classification consistency of 81.3% （13/16） with in vivo test. Conclusion BCOP test may be independently used to identify chemicals with potential eye irritation and serious eye damage， suggesting it is significant for in vitro integrated test strategy for predicting eye irritation due to cosmetics.

Prevalence and quality of informed consent for patients undergoing cosmetic procedures: a cross sectional study / Prevalencia y calidad del consentimiento informado de los pacientes sometidos a procedimientos estéticos: un estudio transversa / Prevalência e qualidade de consentimento informado para pacientes submetendo-se a procedimentos cosméticos: um estudo transversal

Abstract: Background: Failure of the physician to disclose potential risks and benefits associated with cosmetic procedures is one of the main causes of legal disputes over informed consent. The objective was to assess the prevalence and quality of the informed consent given by patients who undergone cosmetic procedures and its association with post-procedure adverse events. Methods: It was a cross-sectional, online, questionnaire-based study conducted during September and October 2020. Eligible adult male and female patients who were attending a governmental dermatology clinic at Al-Kharj city (Saudi Arabia) were invited to join the study. Results: A total of 246 patients were included in the study. Out of 246, 111 (45.1%) patients performed at least one cosmetic procedure before, and 89 (80.2%) of them signed an informed consent. 62 (69.7%) of them signed a consent before the procedure, 17 (19.1%) reported post-procedure adverse events, 16 (18.0%) reported dissatisfactions, and 27 (30.3%) reported either. None of the consent characteristics were significantly associated with higher prevalence of post-procedure adverse events or non-satisfactions. Conclusions: The prevalence and the quality of informed consent before cosmetic procedures are inadequate. Urgent corrections are required to protect the patient's rights and to legally protect the treating physician.

Resumen: Antecedentes: El hecho de que el médico no revele los posibles riesgos y beneficios asociados a los procedimientos estéticos es una de las principales causas de las disputas legales sobre el consentimiento informado. El objetivo fue evaluar la prevalencia y la calidad del consentimiento informado dado por los pacientes sometidos a procedimientos estéticos y su asociación con los eventos adversos posteriores al procedimiento. Métodos: Fue un estudio transversal, online, basado en un cuestionario, realizado durante septiembre y octubre de 2020. Se invitó a participar en el estudio a pacientes adultos de ambos sexos que acudían a una clínica dermatológica gubernamental en la ciudad de Al-Kharj (Arabia Saudí). Resultados: Un total de 246 pacientes fueron incluidos en el estudio. De los 246, 111 (45,1%) pacientes se habían sometido al menos a un procedimiento cosmético antes, y 89 (80,2%) de ellos firmaron un consentimiento informado. 62 (69,7%) de ellos firmaron un consentimiento antes del procedimiento, 17 (19,1%) informaron de acontecimientos adversos posteriores al procedimiento, 16 (18,0%) informaron de insatisfacciones y 27 (30,3%) informaron de cualquiera de los dos. Ninguna de las características del consentimiento se asoció significativamente con una mayor prevalencia de acontecimientos adversos posteriores al procedimiento o insatisfacciones. Conclusiones: La prevalencia y la calidad del consentimiento informado antes de los procedimientos cosméticos son inadecuadas. Se requieren correcciones urgentes para proteger los derechos del paciente y proteger legalmente al médico tratante.

Resumo: Contexto: A falha do médico em comunicar os potenciais riscos e benefícios associados a procedimentos cosméticos é uma das principais causas de disputas legais sobre consentimento informado. O objetivo foi avaliar a prevalência e qualidade do consentimento informado dado a pacientes que sofreram procedimentos cosméticos e sua associação com eventos adversos pós-procedimento. Métodos: Estudo transversal, online, baseado em questionário, realizado durante setembro e outubro de 2020. Pacientes homens e mulheres, adultos elegíveis, de uma clínica dermatológica governamental da cidade de Al-Kharj (Arábia Saudita) foram convidados a participar do estudo. Resultados: Um total de 246 pacientes foram incluídos no estudo. Dos 246, 111 (45.1%) pacientes realizaram pelo menos um procedimento cosmético anterior e 89 (80.2%) deles assinaram um consentimento informado. 62 (69.7%) deles assinaram um consentimento antes do procedimento, 17 (19.1%) relataram eventos adversos pós-procedimento, 16 (18.0%) relataram insatisfações e 27 (30.3%) relataram ambos. Nenhuma das características do consentimento foram significativamente associadas com mais alta prevalência de eventos adversos pós-procedimento ou não satisfação. Conclusões: A prevalência e a qualidade do consentimento informado antes de procedimentos cosméticos são inadequados. Correções urgentes são requeridas para proteger os direitos dos pacientes e para legalmente proteger o médico responsável.

Quantifying the inovation of cosmetic formulations that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as fotoprotective bioactives / Quantificando a inovação de formulações cosméticas que contêm extratos de frutas ricas em substâncias fenólicas como bioativos fotoprotetivos

Introduction: sunscreen is a cosmetic used to protect human skin from the deleterious effects of UV radiation and thus minimize the risks of developing skin cancer. Extracts produced from fruits, such as Abiu, Guava, Rambutan and Grape, have significant concentrations of chromophores and phenolic substances that have the ability to absorb UV light and neutralize free radicals. The production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for Brazilian industry and could reduce the cost of production, given the large existing biodiversity in the country. Objectives: carry out a patent search for formulations and cosmetic products that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as photoprotective and antioxidant bioactives. Methodology: a survey of patents was carried out in the database of the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) and the European Patent Office (EPO), covering a time period between 2008 and 2018, using a combination of keywords related to herbal cosmetics and sunscreens. Results: this research identifies a significant number of patents related to plant extract in association with sunscreen product, however, no patent filings were identified for cosmetic products containing extracts of the evaluated fruits, either alone or in combination, for photoprotective and antioxidant purposes. Conclusion: the Brazilian and international market for sun care products moves millions to billions of dollars annually and have a significant annual growth prospect. Considering the great biodiversity existing in the country, the production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for the Brazilian industrial sector.

Introdução: os filtros solares são cosméticos usados para proteger a pele humana dos efeitos deletérios da radiação UV e assim, minimizar os riscos de desenvolvimento de câncer de pele. Extratos produzidos a partir de frutos, como Abiu, Goiaba, Rambutan e Uva, têm concentrações significativas de cromóforos e substâncias fenólicas que têm a capacidade de absorver a radiação UV e neutralizar os radicais livres. A produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para a indústria brasileira e poderá reduzir o custo de produção, dada a grande biodiversidade existente no país. Objetivos: realizar uma busca de registros de patentes de formulações e produtos cosméticos que contêm extratos de frutos ricos em fenólicos como bioativos fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Metodologia: foi realizado um levantamento de patentes no banco de dados do Instituto Nacional de Propriedade Intelectual (INPI) e do Escritório Europeu de Patentes (EPO), abrangendo um período de tempo entre 2008 e 2018, utilizando uma combinação de palavras-chave relacionadas a cosméticos à base de plantas e protetores solares. Resultados: esta pesquisa identificou um número significativo de patentes relacionadas ao extrato de plantas em associação ao produto protetor solar, no entanto, não foram identificados pedidos de patente para produtos cosméticos que contenham extratos das frutas avaliadas, isoladamente ou em combinação, para fins fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Conclusão: o mercado brasileiro e internacional de produtos de proteção solar movimenta milhões a bilhões de dólares anualmente e tem a perspectiva de crescimento anual significativa. Considerando a grande biodiversidade existente no país, a produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para o setor industrial brasileiro.